I’m almost embarrassed to say it out loud, but my girls had never spent any real time in the North Carolina banks.
That stings a little more when you consider how deep our roots run there. Swansboro? Settled by our ancestors. Harkers Island? Once owned by my 6x great-grandfather, Ebenezer Harker. Bogue Sound? My family helped settle that, too. From Brunswick County all the way up to the Virginia line, our history is stitched into the coastline.
So this year, I set out to right that cosmic wrong. I packed up Bug and Belle and took them on their very first trip to the banks.
We spent twelve hours exploring the Core Banks—and managed to fit in more than you might expect. Want to follow along? I’ve shared our journey below. Enjoy!
12 Hours in the Core Banks
Fort Macon State Park
Our first stop of the day was Fort Macon—and honestly, it might just be my favorite historic fort in the state.
Built in 1826, Fort Macon guarded Bogue Inlet for more than a century. The CCC restored it and turned it into a state park in 1936, but history didn’t stop there—during World War II, the military leased it back for coastal defense.
And pardon my French, but Fort Macon does a damn good job of telling all that history. The exhibits are solid, the views are stunning, and you can walk the same halls where soldiers once stood watch. It’s living history done right.
El’s Drive-In
After lingering at the fort longer than we meant to (it’s easy to do), we were more than ready for lunch. And when you’re that close to El’s Drive-In, there’s really only one answer to the question of where to eat.
El’s is a local institution—serving up classic Carolina comfort food since 1959. It’s the kind of place that doesn’t need to change because it got it right the first time.
Here’s what you need to know: they only take cash, and everything they make is delicious.
My advice? Order the shrimp burger. It’s a soft bun stacked high with crispy fried shrimp and slaw. Get it with fries and a cold Pepsi, and you’ve got yourself a North Carolina lunch worth remembering.
Core Sound Waterfowl Museum & Heritage Center
Next, we headed to Harkers Island to visit the Core Sound Waterfowl Museum & Heritage Center—and y’all, I fell in love.
I’ll admit, I was a little disappointed not to find any specific records on the Harker family, but that didn’t dim the experience one bit. Walking through the exhibits, I saw the lives of my distant kin reflected everywhere—in the photographs, the stories, the craftsmanship. It was humbling and beautiful.
I also learned so much about the decoy carving tradition of Harkers Island. These aren’t just hunting tools—they’re hand-carved works of art, passed down through generations. Bug even picked one out for Brandon before we left. They’re a bit of an investment, but absolutely worth it.
Island Express Ferry
If you want to explore Shackleford Banks or Cape Lookout, there’s really only one way to do it: by boat. We caught the Island Express Ferry from Harkers Island and booked both stops—because if you’re already out there, why not see it all?
The ride alone is worth it. Salt air in your lungs, dolphins in the distance, and barrier islands rising up from the horizon like secrets waiting to be told.
Shackleford Banks
Shackleford Banks is a slip of wild land, edged in dunes and scattered shells. During tourist season, it can get a little crowded near the drop-off point—but if you can go, you absolutely should. Why? Wild horses.
The famous Shackleford herd roams free across the island. A short hike inland will usually bring you close enough to see them. Just be sure to keep your distance—these aren’t ponies from a petting zoo. They’re true island natives: beautiful, untamed, and perfectly at home in the wild.
Cape Lookout
Cape Lookout was the highlight of the day for me—even though I made a rookie mistake and didn’t reserve a side-by-side to get us out to the historic village, which was the main thing I wanted to see.
Still, we made the most of our time. We swam, combed the beach for shells, and lounged under that big Carolina sky. And we stood in awe of what might just be the most beautiful lighthouse in America.
It’s hard to describe the feeling of standing at the edge of the world like that. The wind, the water, the rhythm of waves meeting shore—it quiets something in you.
The Shark Shack
We wrapped up our day with supper at The Shark Shack in Atlantic Beach. They were slammed. Our food took forever. I got irritated.
And then the food came—and all was forgiven.
The vibe was relaxed, the staff kind, the seafood fresh and delicious. It’s the kind of place you’d visit again and again… just maybe not when the line’s too long.
12 hours in the Core Banks wasn’t nearly enough—not for a place that holds generations of our family’s story in its salt and sand. But it was a start.
Bug and Belle got their first real taste of the banks, and I got to see it all again through their eyes—new, wide, and wonder-filled.
We may have only scratched the surface of what these islands hold, but we’ll be back. Next time, we won’t wait so long.
Because when your roots run this deep, the coast always calls you home.
